Fiesole's Forgotten Gem - San Martino A Mensola

Friday, November 27, 2015
Posted in: Churches & Religious Buildings Tourist Attractions
San Martino a Mensola, Interior
San Martino a Mensola is a lovely parish church in the Renaissance style, in Fiesole, Tuscany. Although it is small, the art and architecture of the building is surprisingly rich and grand. The first church on the site dated to the Roman era and was a ruin by the 9th century. It was then that the Bishop of Fiesole ordered its restoration. This building, too, barely remains with the current structure dating to the 15th century. Another of the draws to the building is a rather unique relic which remains inside and miraculously intact. This is the body of St Andrew, an Irish saint, which has refused to decay in the centuries since his death. If you have an interest in such macabre things, or pretty churches stuffed full of Renaissance art, find a luxury villa in Fiesole and have a wander around this fascinating building.
Centre of Fiesole
The exterior of the building is not particularly striking or immediately impressive but the entirety of the church has a beautiful sense of restraint and simplicity. This is particularly evident and effective on the interior where there is a distinct presence and influence of Brunelleschi in the pared back classicism and unornamented stone and plaster of the walls and columns. In fact, you could easily be in a miniature Santo Spirito, minus the coffered ceiling. The interpretation of Renaissance architecture here is uncompromisingly classicising and composed. In contrast to this minimalism are the artworks on display. Gilded and colourful, names such as Neri di Bicci, the school of Agnolo Gaddi and Taddeo Gaddi are represented, as well as a work originally attributed to Fra Angelico but which is probably by Zanobi Machiavelli.
The simple yet grand interior is divided into three aisles with the central bay terminating in a square Renaissance apse and the two side aisles into round apses of Romanesque origin. It is in her five chapels that San Martino hosts her important fourteenth- and fifteenth-century works of art. The loggia is a 17th century intervention and the whole building was restored in the 70s after extensive damage in WWII.

St Andrew ended up in the town during travels through Italy with his master, St Donatus. They came upon Fiesole where the people were in desperate need of a religious leader.

By a miracle, the two were brought to the people by prayer from the inn in which they were staying and became the leaders they were looking for. The two were involved in the construction of the church, finding its previous incarnation in ruins and their bodies remain in the church to this day with Andrew's mysteriously remaining preserved.

A stunning Renaissance church steeped in legend, history and beauty, this is one corner of Tuscany you won't want to miss – and is far from the normal tourist trail.
Photo credits
picture 1: Aldo Cavini Benedetti / CC BY 3.0;
picture 2: Alessandro Vecchi / CC BY-SA 3.0

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